Ohio – State #40

Headlands Beach State Park

It is with a fair amount of gratitude that I sit at my computer and pen another runner ramble. Who would have guessed the uncertainly, turmoil, isolation and pain that became 2020? After we finished Mississippi, State #39 in Feb 2020, we went home, naive and excited about the next 5 runs on our calendar. Little did we know that within a few short weeks, the entire nation would be paralyzed by a novel virus that no one understood, or knew how to control. One by one, our races were either cancelled, turned virtual, or subjected to quarantine and travel restrictions. Delaware in April and Massachusetts in May were the first to fall. We were hopeful for Pennsylvania in July as COVID appeared to be waning, but a bum knee and travel restrictions took that off the calendar. Delaware had been pushed to September, but ultimately they were not able to get permitting and the race went virtual. Our last hope for 2020 was a small race along the White River in Arkansas in November, but with COVID raging, even though we felt we knew how to travel safely, it felt irresponsible to court the possibility of bringing the virus home to our families. So disappointed, we cancelled our plans and stayed home. All of this was a very minor backdrop to a pandemic that was stealing lives and livelihoods; shuttering industries, schools, and entertainment venues, and leaving people reeling with isolation, depression, suicide, abuse and hopelessness. It was a dark time for the nation and the world, for every conceivable reason.

Thanks to the tireless efforts of dedicated scientists, by December 2020 two COVID vaccines were approved and a light appeared at the end of a very long tunnel. At the time of this blog, more than 95.7 million doses have been administered in the U.S., with two million more being given every day. And while this pandemic is by no means over, little by little we are returning to our former lives, masked and socially distancing where appropriate, but optimistic for the future.

In early January, we started perusing websites for races to build out a revised 2021 calendar. With only 11 states left and many races still on hold because of COVID, it was not an easy task. Our goal is still to finish close to my 70th birthday in 2022. So when Melodie found the “Olde Girdled Grit”, a small trail run scheduled for Feb. 27th in Concord Township, OH, I didn’t flinch, nor do any additional research, but eagerly said “I’m in!” It was only later that we realized that Lake County, nestled along the shores of Lake Erie, has the highest snowfall in Ohio and the month with the most snow is February. When we started weather watching a couple of weeks prior to the race, all of this data became crystal clear. Although it caused some trepidation, cancelling was not in the cards. We were ready to run and travel again, snow, ice and freezing temperatures notwithstanding. We consulted our knowledgeable nieces and daughters for cold weather running advice, and put Amazon to work.

Melodie met me at Sky Harbor early Thursday morning and we flew together to Cleveland, OH. We didn’t have any other takers to accompany us on this trip, for reasons which are not a mystery. Biting, cold winds greeted us as we stepped out of the airport and boarded the shuttle to pick up our rental car. The “feels like” factor was consistently 8 to 10 degrees lower than the actual, so for us warm bloods from CA and AZ, 21 degrees was frigid.

The drive to our lodging at Comfort, Inn in Painesville was only 43 miles which went quickly and uneventfully. Although there was snow on the ground, the roads were clear. We checked into our hotel and went in search of some food, a pretty standard agenda. The roads in the area were very confusing, but we managed to find our way to a restaurant nearby that served decent food. The cold weather conditions couldn’t dim our delight to be together and traveling again.

Friday dawned windy and cold, just as predicted. We huddled in our hotel and worked at our respective jobs for a few hours, then headed out on foot in search of decent coffee and breakfast. It was evident that this is an area that gets a lot of snow.

One of the products that Bethany and Trish had recommended to us for snow running was YakTrax, an ice traction device that slips on your shoes and provides stability for running on snow and ice, much like chains on your tires. When Melodie and I talked a few days before the race, temperatures were warming and it looked like race day temps would be above freezing. Melodie was pretty sure we wouldn’t need them, so she was thinking about leaving hers home as we always have so much stuff to haul. I, on the other hand, thought we should probably bring them as we never know what we might encounter. Long story short, when we got here, we realized that we had followed each other’s advice. Melodie brought hers, and I left mine home. Classic sister stuff and fodder for a good laugh at ourselves.

After brunch, we headed to Second Sole in Mentor to pick up our race bibs and find out a bit more about race conditions and logistics. I was able to pick up another pair of YakTrak’s so that problem was solved, but the feedback on trail conditions was disconcerting.

One of our traditions with our states races is to spend one day sight-seeing and immersing ourselves in the culture of the area. We typically do our research prior to getting on the plane and have a plan. For whatever reason, this didn’t happen. Melodie did some googling on the fly and we discovered that the James A. Garfield National Historic Site was in Mentor. Neither of us knew much about him, so we headed over and toured the museum and did some reading on his life. James A. Garfield was our 20th president, inaugurated in March 1881, shot and mortally wounded on July 2 by a political fanatic, and died on Sept 19th. It was a tumultuous time in our country’s history and a reminder that political discord and controversy is not new. It was an educational hour and kept us out of the cold – so it was a win/win.

Next sight-seeing stop was Headlands Beach State Park, heralded as one of the most popular beaches in the Lake County Area. Needless to say, it was not populated the day of our visit, albeit there were a few hardy Ohioans out enjoying the area. At this point, the wind had picked up, and the cold penetrated every joint and muscle of our bodies. Despite this, we walked out to the beach and took pictures. Our faces say it all.

We lasted about an hour, enough to get our 10,000 steps in and satisfy our need to say we’d done some sight-seeing. It was during this jaunt that we received the last email from the race director. He sent out a message to registered runners using words like….”Most horrible trail conditions we’ve ever seen. Much worse than last year. YakTrax and spikes can only do so much. The trail is solid ice and snow. Please come prepared to go slow”. We looked at each other and had a moment. Were we being foolish? Did we need to pull the rip cord? It almost sounded like the race director was trying to discourage people from showing up for the race. Our anxiety levels were high, but neither of us were ready to call it quits. We headed back to our hotel and ordered a pizza, all the while trying to manage our concerns about the conditions.

Race morning dawned much as predicted. Warmer temps and rain. The Olde Girdled Grit Trail Run boasted 4 distances; 50K, 18 miles, full marathon, and half marathon. The long distance runners started at 7:30, but the half didn’t start until 9:00 am. We ate our runners breakfast in our hotel room, and headed out to conquer the day. At this point, our goals were simple. Don’t freeze to death. Don’t fall. Finish upright.

We figured that many runners wouldn’t show up after the race director’s dire predictions of the day before. However, when we arrived, all the parking spots were full, and it appeared that all 193 registrants for the half marathon were there and ready to go. We learned later that the majority of the runners were locals. We were most likely the only west coasters in the bunch. The rain had started to taper off by race time and the temperature was around 40. Time to go out there and just do it.

The first two miles were on the road and straight uphill. Slow, but not bad. As we entered the park, there was a spot for runners to put on their YakTrax and then the fun began. The dynamic here was that even though temps were above freezing, sun could not easily enter the heavily wooded Lake Metroparks area. What that meant is the snow melted just enough to create a slick, icy surface on the trail. We started out very gingerly as we became acquainted with our life-savers, the trusty YakTrax. At one point, I even picked up a walking stick to keep from slipping.

Stairs, suspension bridges, steep ups and downs, this course had it all. After the first hour, we had only gone 4 miles. We looked at each other and wondered if we were going to be out here all day. But we kept going, there weren’t many alternatives. We were dressed appropriately, so being cold didn’t become a factor. We saw people out there with no YakTrax or spikes, slipping and sliding down the hills, and decided we weren’t too bad off. After mile 7, the terrain evened out a bit and we were able to pick up the pace. And at mile 10, we hit pavement once again for 1.5 miles, and my younger and faster sis took off like she had fire on her tail. The last 1.5 miles were again in the park, so back on went the YakTrax, and we gutted it out.

Finished at last. Upright and smiling. It took over an hour longer than a typical half marathon usually does, but we managed it without injury, frozen appendages, or loss of humor. There were 6 people in the female 60 – 69 age group in the race and we were 2nd. So not too bad, all things considered. I’m pretty sure the only person in the world that would do something like this with me is my little sis. We aren’t sure which one of us is to blame, so we just lock arms, and roll together. What an experience!

Exhausted but slightly euphoric that we survived, we headed back to our hotel room. Although the hotel’s hot tub and swimming pool were closed due to COVID restrictions, our room boasted a large, whirlpool jacuzzi. We donned our swimming suits and pampered our sore muscles for a bit, so grateful to be done.

After relaxing for a bit, we donned our matching sweatshirts, courtesy of OGG, and headed out to eat our last meal in Painesville, OH. Although this picture showcases clearly which one of us is younger, it still makes me happy to look at it.

Sole Sisters Forever

We spent our last few hours researching our next races – some would call us certifiable. But one thing is for sure. We take nothing for granted. It’s been a rough 12 months, but we have much to be grateful for. The love and support of an incredible family, our continued good health despite the occasional hiccups, and the ability and desire to pursue our dreams.

Next up is Carderock, MD in April. I’ve put in a special request for warm weather, and flat, dry roads with the guy upstairs. If you’ve got a minute, you can add your request to mine.

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What’s Your Posture?

Pinnacle Peak Hike (8)

Over the last few weeks, running has been hard.  To be honest, running rarely can be characterized as “easy”, but a good run flows and has purpose and passion.   I have a bucketful of reasons to explain this, but the end result is still the same;   a tired, achy body and motivation that has fled the premises.

As I jogged down the canal trail this morning, I happened to glance over and see my shadow in the dirt.  The silhouette reflected a humped back, scrunched shoulders, and bowed head.  That caught my attention.   I immediately threw my shoulders back, straightened my core, lifted my head and opened up my stride.   Within minutes, I felt energized.   My pace picked up and the endorphins that have carried me through countless miles of running came flooding in.   A lousy run turned into a pretty decent one.

Running Las Sendas (27)

As I reflected on this, the theme in my head was “I know better”.   The mind and body are inextricably linked.   I had allowed the overwhelming nature of what is happening in the world to take control of my mind.   I had assumed a posture of defense;   protect yourself from getting hurt as best you can, and just endure.  When, in fact, the best thing you can do is throw your shoulders back, breathe deep, and keep your eyes on the goal.  Adopt a posture of offense, not defense.   Defense may win football games, but it produces timid runners.

Nor will a defensive posture win this current war we are waging.  We have to isolate ourselves physically, but we don’t have to isolate mentally or emotionally.  I’ll never forget the lesson I learned in New Zealand when crossing a turbulent river that came up to our waists.  Our guide had us lock arms and cross in a diagonal pattern.   Her admonition was very clear:  at all costs, do not let go of each other.   Together you’ll make it, by yourself you will drown.

I’m a practical person, though prone to injured cliches and an unshakable conviction that most of us have good intentions.   I know my running epiphany will not stop this dread virus in its tracks, nor grease the wheels that need to deliver critical resources to a reeling nation.   The challenges are legion.  Our best chance to beat this is to lock arms by harnessing our collective skills and intelligence and cross the river together.

At least, that’s the way I see it.

20200321_181219388_iOSLas Sendas PM Walk (5)Las Sendas PM Walk (8)

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Mississippi – State #39

Belmont Plantation Grounds (3)

Belmont Plantation, Est 1857

After a 3 1/2 month hiatus, we were eager to embark on our next states running trip.  For a February run, Mississippi was really the only state left where the weather had a chance to be decent.   We searched the web for races in Mississippi and ended up selecting the Mississippi River Half in Greenville, the only race offered in the Mississippi Delta.  Their stated goal is to get people in the Delta communities excited about healthy lifestyles by supporting and participating in a running event.  The race donates funds to local non-profits committed to providing children with quality education.  In addition, this particular race received high marks for organization and the course was billed as flat and fast.   We set our expectations for a cultural experience and signed up.

It was a small crew for State #39.  Between the time of year and the location, we didn’t have many takers.   Kathy was able to join us at the last minute, so it was the three musketeers who boarded their flights early Thursday morning and met in Las Vegas for lunch and a brief layover before heading to Little Rock, Arkansas.

Dining (3)

Lunch in Vegas

We landed on schedule in Little Rock late that afternoon.    After a brief delay in picking up our rental car as the first one reeked of cigarette smoke, we set out for the 145 mile trek to Greenville, MS.   Unfortunately, we didn’t see much of the countryside as it was already dark, but there was very little traffic so we made great time, arriving in Greenville around 8:30 pm.

Finding lodging in the Greenville area had been a challenge.   Typically, we have the best luck with AirBnB’s, but most of the ones we looked at seemed at risk to either fall down or slide into the Mississippi River.   We ended up selecting the Belmont Plantation, est 1875, the last antebellum mansion along the river in the Mississippi Delta and listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.   Joshua Cain, a local entrepreneur with a passion for restoring historical buildings, bought what he later called “the most expensive money pit in Greenville” and restored it to its original grandeur.  It is now operated as a bed and breakfast targeted to guests who are interested in a cultural experience.   We were greeted by our friendly, hospitable hostess who gave us a brief tour and showed us to our room, The Victoria Suite.   Food was definitely on our minds by that time, but she told us the only choice in Greenville at 9:00 pm on a weeknight was a sports bar.

Dining (5)

Dining (4)

Really?

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Melodie is a bit concerned about the menu choices.

Suffice it to say, we found something to eat but we had our first lesson in Greenville, MS dining.   Everything was either fried or battered and catfish, crawdads and shrimp had a prominent spot on the menu.   Even the salad was greasy.   We did, however, thoroughly enjoy the fried dill pickles.

Back to our room we went.   Although with 14 ft ceilings it was not particularly warm or cozy, it was elegant, clean and attractive. (Pardon the video where a snap was intended.   I was learning to use a new iPhone.)

Belmont Plantation (4)

The sitting area in our room

Belmont Plantation (3)

The water closet

We woke up to cool, rainy weather – just as the weather prognosticators had predicted.  We spent the first several hours of the day with our hostess, getting a complete tour of the plantation and grounds, along with a lot of historical background and colorful stories.   Camille, our host, was gracious, personable and had the gift of gab.   She seemed to know everyone and anybody who had ever lived in the area and had a story for everything.   She was extremely knowledgeable about the history of the region and radiated pride in the exquisitely restored Belmont Plantation and all it represented.  She was the type of person who made you feel instantly comfortable.

Belmont Plantation (5)

Entry way.   The plaster work was restored from the original and is a blend of the prevailing Greek Revival and Italianate styles of the day.

Belmont Plantation (1)

Formal Sitting Room

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Music Room

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The instruments had all been restored from that era.

Belmont Plantation (6)

 

Belmont Plantation (9)

Camille and Joshua rescued the Panther Burn Cottage from being destroyed by a neighboring plantation after a flood wiped most of it out.   It was originally a doctor’s office.   They had the cottage moved to Belmont and restored to its original condition.   It is now rented out to guests who don’t mind cozy with their culture.

Panther Burn Cottage (1)

Panther Burn Cottage

Panther Burn Cottage (2)Panther Burn Cottage (3)

The plantation sits in the middle of a field.   Even in February, the grounds were beautiful and showed the promise of spring.

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We asked Camille about sight-seeing opportunities, but at this time of year, there wasn’t much.   We decided to just drive around and get a feel for the area.   The Mississippi Delta is about as flat as you can get.   Agriculture is the backbone of the region with the major crops being cotton, soybeans, rice, corn, small grains, vegetables and catfish.  Farms stretch out on every side as far as the eye can see.  Camille told us these farms represent some of the most fertile soil in the world.

Pre-Race Morning (6)Race Course Pic

While the farms appeared to be thriving, the downtown area of Greenville was a different story.   As we drove into town to pick up our race packets, it was clear that the town had fallen on tough economic times.   Many establishments were boarded up and those that were open had limited hours.  Casinos had been brought in to inject some money into the region, but they had not produced the desired result.   We found it very sobering and a stark reminder that there are still areas in our affluent country where people struggle with poverty.

Packet pick-up was in a one-room building that had formerly been the Leyser Gallery.  One thing was immediately obvious – these people were some of the most friendly, hospitable and helpful of any we’ve encountered in our travels.   They were obviously proud of this race and the high marks they receive from the running community for putting on a first class event.

We returned to our rooms later that afternoon for a little rest and relaxation.  Finding dining options again proved challenging, but we did eventually find a small Mexican restaurant called La Sierrita that served delicious, authentic Mexican food.   The building was another story, but the food was awesome.

Race morning was pretty relaxed.   Camille prepared us the breakfast of our choice – blueberries, bananas, yogurt, and oatmeal, and Kathy saved Melodie and me from the early shuttle bus routine by driving us to the race start.   Despite our worries, race day dawned sunny with temps in the low 40’s, close to perfect for running.

Pre-Race Morning (3)

Sunrise outside the Belmont

The race start was setup in the parking lot of a restaurant called “Cow Pen” with fields on every side.    It was a small group:  204 participants ran the half, 104 ran the marathon which started in another location, and 94 ran the 5K which started from the finish line in downtown Greenville.

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We were literally staged in the middle of a field.

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Singing the National Anthem

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Pre-race selfie

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And yes, the race actually started in Arkansas, immediately heading up the Greenville Bridge for 2 miles, and crossing into Mississippi around mile 3.   We actually thought about counting it for both states, but the purist in us couldn’t quite accept that.

Pre-Race Morning (1)

Start time

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Crossing the Mississippi River

Race Course Pics

Heading into Mississippi

Race Pics

Pretty much what most of the race course looked like – flat, wide-open highways and green fields

We didn’t get a lot of race course pictures for a variety of reasons.   I’ve never trained myself to stop and take pictures, and Melodie has recently found her wings and was flying.   She had her best race time in 16 years, second only to Big Sur back in 2004.

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Crossing the finish in style 2:15 later!

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Yours truly, about 5 minutes later

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Gotta love the post-race pic!

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The crew – all of us took second place in our age group 

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They even gave out a little hardware in the half marathon for age group placers.

As always, it was good to be done.   We headed back to the Belmont for showers and another web search for a place to eat.   Searching the web turned out to be less than fruitful, so we finally just jumped in the car and drove around.   Every eating establishment within 20 miles of the Belmont was closed, but it took us two hours to figure this out.   Turns out in Greenville, MS you can eat at a few lunch spots between 11:00 – 2:00, but after that, nothing is open until 5:00.   Wow.   We were starving and didn’t feel like we could wait, so finally ended up buying an aged prepackaged salad from Starbucks at Harlow’s Casino.

Despite our eating challenges, good spirits prevailed.  On our way back to the Belmont, we stopped for a couple more photo ops.

Goofing off (1)Goofing off (2)

AR MS Bridge (1)

Greenville Bridge

AR MS Bridge (3)

Mississippi River Barge

The pre-packaged salad didn’t last very long so we were grateful when evening rolled around and we could go out and get an actual meal.   That evening we ate at Greenville’s finest eating establishment called Sherman’s.   Along with the catfish, shrimp, and crawdads, they served a nice steak with vegetables we recognized.   We were profoundly grateful.

And so our Mississippi experience wound to a close.   As with every trip, we learned something new.   Our states journey does not have to include rugged mountains, beautiful blue lakes, and cascading waterfalls to be a memorable experience.   There is value to be found in warm, friendly people, rich history, and fields that go on forever.  As described by the local chamber of commerce:  “This is the land where the Blues began, where Rock and Roll was created, and where Gospel remains a vibrant art.  It is an agricultural region where cotton was once king, and where ‘precision-ag’ rules today.”

Our travel day started early and was long, but uneventful.   We headed back to Little Rock Sunday morning, flew into Dallas, and then headed to our respective homes from there.   We are richer for the opportunity to share new experiences;   laughing, running, and talking ’round the clock.   It is all part of the story.

Next up – Rehoboth Beach, Delaware.

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North Dakota – State #38

Race Course (1)

2019 will be remembered as the year we put the pedal to the metal;   6 states in 10 months, driving our total to 38 states completed overall.  The goal we had set 16 years ago after limping across the finish line at Lake Tahoe was in our sights.   We identified, planned and calendared the remaining 12 states.  Anticipation tempted us to schedule a race every month and sprint to the finish line, but wisdom dictated that the steady, even pace that got us this far would take us to the end.

Selecting a race in North Dakota was challenging.   The weather is too harsh for running much of the year and race options are limited.   Fargo bubbled to the top as a friendly city offering a fall run on a flat course along the Red River, showcasing brilliant fall colors.   In addition, the travel was simple.   Fly Mesa to Fargo on Allegiant and drive 10 minutes to our AirBnB – with the exception of Melodie who had an extra leg from Oakland to Mesa.  After the travel marathons of Michigan and Maine, we were ready for easy.   And as an added bonus, all 5 sisters were able to make the trip which is always a special treat.

As usual, we had been weather watching and were alarmed to see the winter storm that blanketed the Midwest the week before the race.   Blizzard conditions followed by heavy rain and winds spread across the Dakotas and Minnesota and for a while we wondered if traveling would be wise.   Amazingly, as race weekend neared, the weather warmed up considerably and ended up being pretty close to perfect.  The biggest impact was the flooding which meant the entire race course had to be rerouted to avoid the Red River and knee-deep mud on the trails.

I picked up Melodie from Sky Harbor Thursday morning and we met our sisters at Mesa Gateway that afternoon to start our trip.  Allegiant Airlines does not have a lot of frills, but it gets us to these small towns where major airlines do not fly.

Gateway Mesa Airport (1)Gateway Mesa Airport (2)Gateway Mesa Airport (4)Gateway Mesa Airport (5)

We arrived in Fargo without incident and checked into our AirBnB at 6:00 that evening.  This particular AirBnb was someone’s home and had a definite lived-in feeling, but it was large and accommodating with many amenities, including a hot tub, so we were happy.   In addition, the host was attentive and helpful, which is always a big plus.

Elm Street Fargo (1)

Our host left us a detailed list of places to eat in Fargo, so we picked Porter Creek Hardwood Grill and headed out for a nice dinner.   We pretty much had the restaurant to ourselves.   Thursday night is quiet in Fargo, North Dakota.

Porter Creek Hardwood Grill

Later that evening we wandered around looking for a grocery store but found that Fargo was a town where sidewalks roll up by 9:00 pm.   Better luck the next day.

Sight-seeing has become a big part of our 50 states journey, but we were warned that Fargo did not offer a lot in the way of major tourist attractions.  Fortunately for us, the company was so good that we would have enjoyed ourselves regardless, but we did some digging and found a local attraction that looked interesting.

We chose to visit the Heritage Hjemkomst Center located in Moorhead, Minnesota.  The center stands as a testament to Norwegian culture and heritage in the Red River Valley. The main exhibits are the Hjemkomst, a Viking long boat modeled after one excavated from a 9th Century ship burial, and a full-scale replica of an 11th Century Scandinavian wooden stave church.  The center also had several galleries for rotating exhibits.   At the time of our tour, the exhibit focused on World War I and local servicemen who served.   The pictures, stories, and artifacts were gripping and told a story we don’t hear often.

Hjemkomst Center (1)

The Hjemkomst, which means “Homecoming” in Norwegian, is a full-scale replica of the Gokstad Viking ship that was discovered in Norway in 1880.  It began as the project of an injured schoolteacher and amateur shipwright, Robert Asp, who wanted to honor his Norwegian heritage by building a replica of the ship and sailing it from Duluth, Minnesota to Oslo, Norway.  We watched a short film that detailed the whole story and were amazed by the dedication of the family willing to do whatever was necessary to make Robert Asp’s dream a reality.  It took ten years of planning, building and training to accomplish their goal.

Hjemkomst Center (3)

The finished ship features the horned head of a dragon which the crew named Igor.

Hjemkomst Center (4)

Hjemkomst Center (5)

This picture illustrates the sleeping conditions for the crew of 12.   They took turns sleeping during the three month voyage.

Hjemkomst Center (6)

The center mast was 63 feet tall and supported a 30′ x 40′ main sail and a 10′ x 30′ top sail.

Hjemkomst Center (7)

The other main attraction at the center was the Hopperstad Stave Church.   The church is an amazingly detailed full-scale replica of the stave church at Vik, Norway built 900 years ago.  This style of a wooden structure with post and lintel construction and a steep sloping roofline was popular in northern Europe during the Middle Ages.   This particular replica was built by Guy Paulson who wanted to use his 20+ years of woodcarving experience to pay homage to his heritage as the son of Norwegian immigrants.   In total, Paulson spent 5 1/2 years building the 72 ft tall replica and completing the incredibly detailed ornamental carvings.

Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (1a)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (1)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (8)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (14)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (6)

Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (9)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (10)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (11)Hopperstad Stave Church Replica (13)

Aside from the fascinating history lesson we received at the Hjemkomst Center, we spent the rest of the day picking up our packets, eating and driving around the city.   In retrospect I realized none of us took as many pictures as usual, but I chalk that up to the fact that we were all too much in the moment to remember.

Race morning typically means crawling out of bed at 5:30 am and gulping down a high calorie breakfast before you are even hungry.   This particular race, however, had a far more relaxed start than usual.  The Fargo Mini Marathon/10K/5K was unique in that the race start was actually inside the Fargo Civic Center.   Inside of standing around outside at 7:00 am shivering in our shoes and waiting in long porta potty lines, we got to wait inside a warm building with plenty of rest rooms and places to sit and relax while being entertained by a local musician playing old-time country western favorites.

Pre-Race Pics (1)Pre-Race Pics (2)Pre-Race Pics (3)Pre-Race Pics (6)

And we were off.   The temperature at race start was 42, but since we didn’t have to freeze to death before starting, it actually felt energizing.  Even though the race course had undergone massive last-minute changes to avoid mud and water, it still followed beautiful paved roads and trails with fall colors in abundance.   And it was flat!   After Tennessee, New Hampshire, Michigan and Maine, we were ready for a race without hills, and this one filled that bill admirably.    Linda and Melodie both provided some great pictures of the course.   Thank goodness for sisters who stop and smell the roses!

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It was one of those races where everything just went right.   Cool, crisp temperatures, flat course, no nagging pains equal great race times.  That doesn’t always happen, so we savor the moment when it does.  By the time we finished, the temperature had crawled to the high 50’s which is as perfect for running as you can get.  It was so fun to have all 5 of us there, laughing and celebrating together.

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Post Race Pics (6)

Traditions are pretty entrenched by state race #38, so it’s no secret what we did next.  Hot tub, showers, and then the nicest restaurant we could find in the area.   We drove to Moorhead, Minnesota again and ate at a place called Ironwood Grill.   The food was absolutely delicious which topped off the day nicely.   We got a tip that it was our waiter’s birthday, so we spilled a little of our celebration on to him.

We spent the evening watching the movie POMS together.   Although billed as a comedy, it also had a serious message that resonated with this 62+ crew;   it is never too late to follow your dreams and everyone counts!   It was a great way to end the day.

Sunday was a travel day, but as the only flight out of Fargo did not leave until 8:10 pm, we had some hours to fill.   We completed the requisite housekeeping chores, packed our bags and were ready to go around noon.   Someone dared me to climb into a tree swing meant for small children, so of course I did.   It was a slightly foolish, precarious act, but the entertainment value was high.   Thank goodness I didn’t break the branch.

Fargo AirBnb (7)

Fargo AirBnb (5)

Earlier in the trip, I had challenged each of my sisters to come up with something they wanted to do.   The Hjemkomst Center was somewhat of a collective decision, but Melodie also wanted to visit the Roger Maris Museum and Colleen wanted to shop.  Surprise, anyone? It just so happens that the museum was in Fargo’s one and only mall – the West Acres Regional Shopping Center, so that is where we headed.

Shopping doesn’t last long for some of us, but we did enjoy the Roger Maris Museum.  We wandered through the exhibits and watched a film of his life.   He was a humble man who just wanted to play baseball and help his team.   He did not relish the spotlight.

Roger Maris Museum (1)Roger Maris Museum (2)Roger Maris Museum (3)Roger Maris Museum (4)Roger Maris Museum (5)

We spent a couple of hours at a local sports bar watching the Seahawks lose miserably to the Ravens, and then it was time to head for the airport.   As trips go, the logistics on this one were as smooth and easy as any trip we’ve ever done.   The drive to the airport took 10 minutes, our flight left right on time, and in two short hours we were home.

Our delightful weekend didn’t end there.  Melodie decided to stay over an extra day in Mesa to see the rest of the family in the area.   We had breakfast with Rosaleen, Bethany, Tony, Paola and little Maddy, then Melodie and I went hiking for a few hours.

Pass Mountain with Melodie (1)Pass Mountain with Melodie (3)Pass Mountain with Melodie (5)

That evening, all the AZ family met at Colleen’s for more visiting and eating.   You’d think we would get tired of talking, but we never do.   The topics are as endless and varied as the opinions.   We are so blessed to have family that we also count as friends.  Sharing our thoughts, ideas, passions and goals is our favorite thing to do.

And so Fargo, ND State #38 is in the books.   We are taking a short hiatus and will not be doing another states race until Feb 2020.   We’re a little worried about such a long break, but God willing, we’ll be back at it next year with the bit in our teeth, and the finish line in our sights;  traveling, laughing and running together.

‘Til next time.

Next up, Greenville, MS.

 

 

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Maine – State #37

Marshall Point Lighthouse and Museum (5)

As part of our commitment to only run races that promise unique and beautiful experiences, we scheduled Maine just 4 short weeks after Michigan.   We had been told that Blueberry Cove 13.1 was the race to run in Maine, so we ignored the loaded schedule and put it on the master plan for August 2019.

The travel required to visit the St George Peninsula in Midcoast Maine was convoluted and long.   Midcoast Maine is pretty much as far east as you can go and still stay in the United States.  Google maps show 3,279 miles from Oakland to Port Clyde for Melodie and 2,806 miles from Mesa to Port Clyde for Colleen, Kathy, and me.   However, never let it be said that we let a little thing like travel challenges deter us.   We put on our planning hats and figured out the most economical and survivable way to make the trip.   We decided to fly into Boston on the red eye, stay in Danvers for a few hours sleep, and then drive 175 miles up the Atlantic Coast on Friday to the little fishing village of Port Clyde where we were staying.    This approach would add an extra day to our typical 4 day trip, but it would give us a chance to see some additional country as well as split up the long hours of air and road travel.

We boarded our flights on schedule Thursday afternoon with the plan to meet in Nashville and go together from there.   It was an extra treat to have Kathy and Colleen along as neither of them had been able to travel much in 2019.

Kathy Colleen en route to Nashville

The Mesa contingent arrived in Nashville with plenty of time to make the Boston flight, but Melodie’s flight was delayed by 30 minutes and she already had a tight connection.    We had some anxious moments wondering if she would be able to get off her crowded plane in time, but she literally came running up as we were boarding the plane.    Traveling seems to provide a lot of these types of moments.   It keeps us young, at least that’s the plan.

We arrived in Boston as scheduled at 1:00 am in the morning.    You would never know it was the middle of the night by the level of activity in this airport.   We caught the shuttle for our rental car, loaded up and drove 25 miles to our hotel in Danvers.   We were again challenged to find anywhere to eat so ended up paying premium dollars for a snack at the hotel.   Between the 3 hour time change and the fact that it was 2:00 am, it was hard to know if we were hungry or tired, but it seemed like a good idea to proceed on the premise that we were both.

Danvers Hotel Room

We gave ourselves permission to sleep in the next morning, but of course, it didn’t happen.  Our clocks were too mixed up for that.   We left the hotel around 9:00 am,  found a great little brunch spot, then proceeded up the coast for our 175 mile drive.

It was an unseasonably cool, overcast day for August in New Hampshire and Maine, but the beaches were still full of people intent on enjoying the last few days of summer.   We stopped and took pictures in several spots, but since most of the state parks required $15 to park, we mostly enjoyed the countryside via car on US Coastal Highway 1A.

We arrived at our lodging, dubbed the Salt and Fir Farmhouse, around 5:00 pm Friday evening.   The farmhouse was very old with that disjointed feel you get from a home that has had multiple add-ons.  Attempts had been made to remodel and update it, but it was impossible to disguise the fact that it was a very old farmhouse with no insulation, a sloping, creaky floor, low slanted ceilings upstairs, dingy outdated appliances, and lots of bugs.   The beds seemed comfortable, however, and there was a certain charm to it overall, so we focused on that and the beautiful view across the road.

One thing we discovered early on is that there was no such thing as cell service in Port Clyde, Maine, population 229, unless you happen to have US Cellular.   The farmhouse had wi-fi, but once you were in the car, you were on your own until you got into the larger towns of Rockland and Rockport.    We learned to download addresses before heading out, otherwise getting lost was a certainty.

We drove down to Port Clyde Harbor that evening in search of a place to eat.   Port Clyde is a sleepy town unless it’s Friday night in August and you happen to be hungry.   Every place we checked had waiting times of well over an hour.  And no one took reservations because voila, you’d need a phone to do that.  We finally just waited it out at a restaurant called The Black Harpoon.   Once we were seated and served, the food was delicious and the service friendly.   An additional treat was the lovely sunset as we walked back to our car.

Our plans for Saturday included an Educational Eco Sailing Tour on the Schooner Heron, sailing out of Rockport Harbor, about 33 miles north of Port Clyde.   On our way, we stopped at a place called 47 West for breakfast and coffee.  New England eating establishments are unique in that they all look like homes rather than a typical café, pub, or restaurant.   It made them a bit difficult to identify.   We will remember this one for the lovely circular hand-carved wooden staircase and the amazing coffee.

47 Street Breakfast.jpg

The 65′ Schooner Heron was built by Captain Twigg and his wife Bonnie, both of them 100 ton USCG licensed captains, having sailed extensively in the Gulf of Maine, trans-Atlantic and the Caribbean. They have been doing tours from Rockport Harbor for more than 20 years and doing charters in the Caribbean the last 13 years.  They built the Heron in 18 months to the 1928 plans of the famous yacht designer John G Alden.  The family has sailed HERON over 100,000 sea miles since launching her in 2003.

There was a fairly gusty northwesterly wind that morning so Captain Twigg was initially concerned about a rough ride, but once we were out in the bay, he did go ahead and “unfurl” the sails.   I even got to help a little.   This particular tour was an “Educational Eco Tour” where in addition to sailing, we learned about lobstering, the historic Indian Island Lighthouse, Rockport Harbor’s working waterfront, and the story of Rockport’s famous Andre, the seal.    

Lobstering is the backbone of life in Maine.  Maine lobstermen supply 90% of the lobsters consumed in the United States.  In 2018, Maine lobstermen brought more than 119 millions pounds of the state’s signature seafood ashore.   We learned that every licensed lobsterman has a color for his buoy so he can recognize his traps.   Solid colors have long been taken, so current buoys are multi-colored and come in myriads of designs.   Lobster season typically runs from June to December, but some intrepid lobstermen will fish all year long.   It can take years to get a lobster license and a lobsterman must serve two years as a sternmaster before he can have his own boat.   The industry is largely self-regulated.

We learned that Penobscot Bay spreads 40 miles long and 15 miles wide and is graced by more than 200 islands before it dumps into the Gulf of Maine.   Unfortunately, we didn’t see any wildlife on this tour as it was a bit too windy.   On the plus side, it was an enjoyable couple of hours, we learned a lot, and no one got seasick.

Sailing in Rockport Harbor (18)

A bit of rough water…

Sailing in Rockport Harbor (17)

Indian Island Lighthouse

Sailing in Rockport Harbor (11)

Heading back

Sailing in Rockport Harbor (10)

After the tour was concluded, we headed back to Port Clyde and stopped for lunch on the harbor at a spot called the DipNet.   Despite their unusual name, they served a delicious lunch.   To whet your appetite, they kept a bathtub full of live, wiggly lobsters right out front.

After lunch, we walked through the Wyeth Art Gallery located on the top floor of the Port Clyde General Store.   Port Clyde was the summer painting grounds for 95 years for three generations of Wyeths.  Andrew Wyeth’s son, Jamie Wyeth, still lives there and continues to paint at the age of 73.    Although none of us lay claim to being art experts, we enjoyed viewing the paintings and learning more about the famous Wyeth family.

Next stop was Blueberry Cove Camp, home to the UMaine 4H Camp & Learning Center and the location of our race start.   All proceeds from the Blueberry Cove 13.1 Half Marathon go directly each year to supporting the camp by providing funds for children who otherwise could not afford it.   This year, we were told that $25,000 was raised for this worthy cause.  Because of this, the race had very little fluff.   The race director greeted us with a smile and bare feet as we entered the camp that afternoon.   White boards with hand-written race instructions and cloth bibs were a first for us.   There were no timing chips, no t-shirts, no handouts, no bling – just friendly people, a beautiful location and a great cause.

After collecting our unique bibs and getting race instructions for the morning, we headed back to the farmhouse, stopping at Tenants Harbor to grab a few more pictures.   The countryside was quintessential New England with quiet coves, gentle hills, and homes dotting the landscape.

For dinner that evening, we chose Luke’s, a spot close to the house and reputed to serve good food while not being quite as busy.     Unfortunately, we decided there was a reason for that.   The service was almost nonexistent and the food was mediocre with few choices besides lobster.   We made do, but had no plans to go back.

Race morning dawned cool and pleasant.   The forecast had been for sunny and 60’s and that’s what we had – perfect running weather.  Colleen and Kathy made logistics simple by dropping us off at the race start and taking care of details like parking.   The camp had a very laid-back, personal feel which made it easy to relax and enjoy the moment.    There were no electronic mats, just homemade signs with the signature buoys attached.

And here’s our race director, still barefoot, calling out the signal to start.

Race Pics (1)Race Pics (2)

The race course was on back country rural roads in and around Tenants Harbor, winding along roads with views of the ocean crashing against the beaches and rocky shorelines, with houses dotting the landscape here and there.   Not much of the course was flat, we did a lot of running up and down hills which always adds an element of challenge, but the course was beautiful.   Even the mosquitos didn’t trouble us.  We ran by Marshall Point Lighthouse, best known as the turnaround place from the movie “Forrest Gump”.

We ran out of steam a little at the end, but overall both of us had a great race.   We don’t take much for granted these days and feel blessed to be able to run.  Melodie came in first, looking like the professional she is, with yours truly following shortly after.

One of our traditions is to treat ourselves to a really special meal after a race.   We felt like we had exhausted most of the local spots in Port Clyde, so we drove to Rockland and had lunch at an amazing place called Archer’s on the Pier.   We sat outside and enjoyed beautiful views, delightful food, perfect weather and the world’s most congenial company.

After lunch, we decided to go back and visit the Marshall Point Lighthouse and Museum. The lighthouse features a walking bridge which brings you to the light station with lovely views of Penobscot Bay on one side and the St George river on the other.   There is a small, quaint museum with interesting displays and history of Port Clyde.   The museum also showcases a touching memorial to lost fisherman as well as a board displaying the colored buoys assigned to current local lobstermen in the area.    It was a fun spot to visit, despite the wind that had picked up.

We returned to the farmhouse for a little R & R prior to tomorrow’s travel marathon.   This group is a working crew so computers were pulled out and a little work got done.  Later that night, we drove into Camden and had dinner at a little pizza spot.   Both Tenants Harbor and Port Clyde were small fishing villages where boats outnumbered cars and restaurants could be counted on one hand, but Camden was a regular town, population 5,254, with more typical small town amenities and lots more eating choices.

Monday morning we got up, packed our bags, completed the exit list required by our host, and were on the road by 9:30.   We knew we were facing 200 miles of driving and 7 to 8 hours of flying, so wanted to get a good start on the day.    We drove for a couple hours before stopping at a small mid-Maine town called Damariscotta for brunch.   All of these little towns were chock full of colorful history.   This particular town sat  on the Damariscotta river and was home to a thriving oyster business.

We arrived at the Boston airport with plenty of time to return our rental car, grab something to eat, and get on the 6:00 pm flight.    We had a 5 hour flight to Denver and from there, we split up and took the final flights to our respective homes.   Gratefully, there was no travel drama this round, just long flights and tired bodies before arriving home at 11:00 pm, PDT.

Long, complicated travel, small villages with no cell service, and an old farmhouse full of bugs were just blips in another awesome state running trip.    We are so blessed to have the experiences that travel brings, the opportunity to learn, and the chance to spend time together.   It’s hard to believe we have completed 37 of these trips;   22 of them have been in the last 4 years since I started blogging.   Even though we have established some traditions and patterns, every trip is unique and full of new things to learn and experience. We treasure each and every moment – those that are the same, and those that are different.

Next up, Fargo, North Dakota, state #38, where the total travel time will be much less!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Michigan – State #36

 

Miners Castle (4)

Miners Castle on Lake Superior

As we near 75% completion of our running the states goal, we are somewhat guilty of sprinting to the finish line.   We scheduled 6 races for 2019, the most we’ve done in a year, and wondered if we might grow travel weary.   However, as we started packing and weather watching for Michigan – State #36, our 4th race this year, our anticipation was running as high as ever.

We selected the Grand Island Trail Run in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula based on a recommendation from my daughter, Tricia.   As the veteran long-distance trail runner among us, she had put this trail run on her list several years back as one that would meet her high expectations.    Getting there would not be easy, but from the pictures, Grand Island looked pristine and spectacularly beautiful and promised to provide a running experience worth traveling for.   In addition, Great Endurance Lakes was a trail organization with high marks for taking care of its runners which we’ve learned the hard way is a very important thing to consider when selecting races.    So, we bit the bullet and put this unique race on our calendar.

The crew on board for this race was Melodie, Janille, Tricia and yours truly.   Tricia and I were flying from Seattle, Janille from Salt Lake, and Melodie from San Francisco.   The plan was to meet in Minneapolis late in the day, board a 50-seat puddle jumper for Sawyer International, and then pick up a rental car for the 48 mile drive into Munising, MI, population 2,205.   We arrived at Sawyer International Airport at 11:00 pm that night to discover that it was a small, very humble facility with absolutely no amenities, including food or cell service.  It was located on the edge of an old, dilapidated military base and there wasn’t a restaurant or gas station in sight.   As we wended our way down the dark, isolated country roads, we realized that eating a nice meal that night was not going to happen.   Thank goodness that everyone (except me) had snacks in their bags or otherwise it would have been a very hangry evening.

Airport Arrive (2)

We arrived in Munising around midnight.   As warned by the locals at the airport, there was nothing open, not even a lowly gas station.  On the upside, the vacation home we had rented was sparkling clean, very well appointed with everything but food.   We retired to our beds and promised ourselves an early breakfast.

Despite the late night, we were up early the next morning, ready to find some food and plot out our sight-seeing agenda, in that order.   Even in the light of day, Munising was not flooded with eating choices, but we did find a little café that offered coffee and a decent breakfast.

Our hosts had provided a list of things to do in Munising so we reviewed it and picked a couple for the day.   First was a 28 mile drive to Laughing Whitefish Falls.   It included a short hike through a lush green forest, a long staircase and a waterfall.

The waterfall was very picturesque and best viewed at the bottom of the staircase.

We drove back to town, grabbed lunch at Main Street Pizza, then headed to the Holiday Inn to pick up our packets.   Trail runs tend to be low on fluff and high on organization, so the stop was short and sweet and we were able to confirm shuttle and ferry schedules for the next morning.

Next stop was Miners Castle, a lovely spot along the shores of Lake Superior and part of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.    This U.S. National Lakeshore extends for 42 miles between Munising and Grand Marais and is famous for its picturesque rock formations, waterfalls, and sand dunes.   Nowadays no one is allowed to go beyond the lookouts and climb the rock formations, but a local man told us he climbed to the top of Miners Castle as a child.    

As the late-blooming geography buffs that we’ve become, we read everything available on Lake Superior.   Lake Superior is the largest freshwater lake in the world by surface area, and the 5 Great Lakes combined account for one-fifth of the freshwater in the world.  Lake Superior has a perimeter of 2800 miles and the water is crystal clear with beautiful shades of green and blue.   

Miners Castle (1)

We found the locals so welcoming and friendly.   They seemed to genuinely enjoy visitors and were very eager to share their life stories.   Summer is a beautiful time in the Upper Peninsula, but their winters are harsh and isolating as they often get up to 300 inches of snow a year.   Every home seemed to have a snowmobile or a truck with a front hitch for a plow.   The handful of people who live in this remote location year around are a hardy bunch.

For dinner that night, we picked a popular local restaurant called Foggy’s that showcased steak and fresh whitefish from the lake.    The parking lot was packed when we pulled up, and sound was emanating from the building.   It was a rowdy spot but clearly a place where people came to eat, drink and enjoy themselves.   The food was delicious and as long as you didn’t need to converse much, it was an enjoyable experience.

Eating

Not quite ready to call it a day, we decided to follow up on another travel tip and visit Sand Beach.   What a treat!   We got there just before sunset and were treated to some idyllic views.   The pictures say it all, but it was definitely one of the highlights of the trip. We took off our shoes, wandered down the beach, and soaked in the moment.

 

We returned to our Fort Knox vacation home and went through our pre-race routines to make sure we were ready for race day.    Every runner was required to carry their own water bottle or hydration system (refillable at aid stations) and dropping garbage on the trail was an offense that would get you disqualified, so you had to be prepared to haul out anything you brought in.   Michigan is serious about preserving its natural resources which is why Grand Island remains the beautiful spot that it is.  Trish was running the 50K and had to be at the shuttle pickup spot at 5:10 am for a 6:00 race start.   The rest of us were running the half marathon which meant a later shuttle and a 8:00 am race start, but it still meant an early morning for all of us.   We had stopped at the local grocery store earlier in the day and stocked up on our favorite breakfast foods, so that box was checked.    All that was required now was to go to bed and get some decent sleep.

Tricia got up bright and early and headed to her shuttle stop at the scheduled time.   For some unfathomable reason the shuttle decided to leave 5 minutes early and she was told there wouldn’t be another shuttle for an hour.  Clearly that wasn’t going to work.   Janille and I jumped in the car and drove her down to the landing where she was able to catch the first ferry over.   She even managed to capture a couple of early morning pictures of the water taxi and the lake.   

Melodie, Janille and I had a more leisurely morning and followed about an hour later.   Based on Tricia’s experience, we decided to drive rather than shuttle. We managed to snag the last parking spot at Holiday Inn and made it to the landing with time to spare.   Doused liberally with mosquito repellant and loaded up with the required gear, we boarded the water taxi for Grand Island.  

We ended up having lots of time to stretch and stand in the porta potty lines, almost too much as we ended up waiting about an hour.   We all loaded Life360 on our phones so we could keep track of each other as we had no idea how long this particular course would take any of us.   And at 8:00 am sharp, we were off.

The first 5 miles were dirt fire roads, mostly flat and sandy through a heavily forested section of the island.   After that, the course took us along the shores of Lake Superior for a mile and a half.   There was no way to run in the deep sand, so we just splashed through the water, walked a lot, and laughed more.   It was good to be alive.

After we left the lake, we began the steep two mile climb that everyone had warned us about.   We went at it easy, walked when we needed to, and overall felt it could have been much worse.   Next was a relatively fast downhill section followed by the second aid station, and then the last 4 miles which was mostly rocky single track and offered occasional views of the lake.   Yow.  

The 50K (31 miles) circled the entire island.   It followed some of the same course as the half marathon, but added many more hills and some spectacular scenery.   Trish managed to grab a few pics along the way to her amazing finish.

And it was over.   What a race!   Despite mosquitos, biting flies, and some rough, hilly spots, it was one of the most beautiful and fun courses we have ever run.  Melodie and I both managed to place in our age group – the senior citizen crowd on this one was small.  Janille, despite some nagging injuries, came in a bit later with a very respectable time.    Trish managed to outdo every expectation that she had set for herself and came in 2nd in her age group, and 4th woman overall with an incredible time of 4:49 and a blistering pace of 9:13!  And this despite a last minute fail with her shoes that required duct tape! We were all so proud of her!

We hung out at the lake for a while enjoying the icy cold water on our muscles and joints.  After a bit, we boarded the water taxi and headed back to Munising to clean up and find some food.   We had lunch at a very unremarkable spot called Eh Burger, but at that point, we weren’t being particularly choosy.    We headed back to our rental home for a few hours of rest and relaxation, taking full advantage of the marvelous massage chair that was in the house.   Although rather skeptical at first, all four of us made full use of this amenity and remain convinced it was the reason we didn’t get sore.

Fort Knox Vacation Rental

Earlier in the trip, we had decided to treat ourselves to a sunset cruise on the Pictured Rocks Spray Falls Cruise on Saturday night.   We headed down to the dock around 6:30 for a 7:30 pm departure as we had been informed that it was a sold-out cruise and seating was on a “first come, first served” basis.    We found a spot on the second level toward the back and settled in for the two hour tour.

It was a bit challenging to take pictures because passengers were not allowed to stand up and obscure the view of others, but we still managed to get quite a few.   The captain pointed out landmarks of interest as we wended our way up 32 miles of shoreline and were treated to views of brilliantly colored cliffs, sea caves, and pristine beaches.   

The sunset cruise allowed passengers to enjoy the rays of the setting sun on the Pictured Rocks cliffs, a beautiful Lake Superior twilight, and an altogether unforgettable evening.

Because our flight out of Sawyer International didn’t leave until 6:00 pm the next day, we had an extra day for sight-seeing on Sunday.   We decided to make the 58 mile drive up H58 to Grand Marais, the northernmost spot on the Pictured Lakes National Lakeshore.   The road was windy and long but the viewpoints along the way made the drive worthwhile.

We stopped at Sable Falls, just outside of Grand Marais, and made the trek down the staircase to see the falls.

Grand Marais made Munising seem like a booming metropolis.   The city was composed of one main street with a café, a restaurant, a small gift shop, a museum, a post office and a gas station.  At last census, the population was 479 and the median age was 63.  We chatted with a friendly local who told us there was only one highway out of town in the winter and everything else required a snowmobile.   It was a charming spot to visit, but none of us were ready to move there anytime soon.

After a leisurely stroll on their pristine section of lakeshore, it was time to start the trek back home.   We had a 100 mile drive ahead of us, a 90 minute ride on a puddle jumper, and a 5 hr flight home.  We made it to Sawyer International in plenty of time, but ended up driving 11 miles out of our way to find a gas station.   We boarded the small 50-seater without incident, but once we were in the air, the pilot, in heavily accented English, told us air traffic control was requiring him to fly an hour out of the way to avoid a thunderstorm.   We heard this with sinking hearts as 3 of us had a very tight connection in Detroit.  However, half an hour later the pilot came back on and said he was being allowed to land.   We ended up landing with 15 minutes to get to our next flight which was at the opposite end of the airport.   In addition, this small plane couldn’t accommodate overhead luggage so we had to wait until an agent was able to retrieve our bags.   Melodie, Tricia and I sprinted full tilt through the Detroit airport – sandals, roller bags, computer bags and all, and pulled up breathing heavily just as our flights were boarding.  The irony of it all was that Melodie’s flight ended up being delayed for an hour so the heart-attack sprint was not necessary.   Janille’s flight was delayed due to an auxiliary power outage so she didn’t get into SLC until 1:00 am.   Our flight to Seattle took an additional hour because of strong head winds, but we did manage to get on the ground by 10:30 pm.  Melodie’s flight arrived in San Francisco at 11:00 pm but was held on the tarmac for an additional 90 minutes because another plane was occupying their gate.   By the time she was shuttled to her car and made the drive home, it was 2:00 am.  

We have learned that the actual act of travel is seldom the best part of traveling.  We put up with long delays, no food, and heart-attack sprints for the delight of sharing new adventures, exploring our amazing country,  and just being together.  We are blessed to have the opportunity and health to travel and run together.   We treasure the moments.

Next up, Tenants Harbor, Maine.

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New Hampshire – State #35

Bay Side Inn (13)

I’ve often wondered if we would grow weary with running the 50 states, particularly as we age and schedule those states where travel is expensive, convoluted and long.  However, when my alarm went off at 3:45 am on Thursday morning, I found myself just as excited as ever to board a plane and head off for our next running adventure.   My supportive husband hauled me out to the airport for a 5:45 am departure, I checked in with Melodie to make sure we were both on schedule, and the journey for New Hampshire, State #35 began.

We do a ton of research to pick the race to run in each state.   So much gets factored into the equation; weather, time of year, location, course, race organization and travel logistics.   It’s a bit like putting an intricate puzzle together and trusting you have all the right pieces.   We selected Big Lake Half Marathon in Alton Bay, New Hampshire based on rave reviews from former participants.  The Big Lake Half offers runners a scenic course along winding country roads around beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee.   This “lollipop” loop course promises to provide spectacular, unending views of forests, quaint cottages, and the White Mountains..   Even though travel would be challenging and long, it looked like the right New Hampshire race for us.

Melodie and I met in Midway, Chicago without incident, barring a minor backup at the gate, and caught our next connection to Manchester.   A thunderstorm was brewing as we took off, so we were grateful to leave Chicago behind us.  We arrived in Manchester on schedule, picked up our rental car, and headed out for Alton Bay around 5:00 pm.

Travel (1)

New Hampshire was beautiful, just as expected, which made for a pleasant drive.   We only had 50 miles to drive but much of it was over winding, potholed country roads so the going was slow.  We arrived in Alton Bay around 6:15 pm and as always, the first item on our agenda was finding somewhere to eat.   Alton Bay is a very small town with only 1,500 year-around residents, so our expectations were low.   Google Search gave a 4 star rating to Ackerly’s Grill and Galley so we decided to give it a try.

Travel (2)Travel (3)Travel (5)

Despite the fact that the restaurant looked like a garage and smelled like the dock, the food was unexpectedly delicious.   Everything was fresh, well-prepared and delightfully presented.  We’ve never had much luck with our first restaurant in a new town, so this was definitely a win.

After dinner, we headed upriver to the Bay Side Inn, our home away from home for the next 3 days.   The early evening drive provided exquisite views of the water and the sunset.   Such a serene and peaceful spot – you could feel yourself relaxing.

Bay Side Inn (15)Bay Side Inn (6)

Bay Side Inn (11)Bay Side Inn (12)

The Bay Side Inn is a B & B established in 1953 and operated by the original family.  The proprietor was friendly and gracious, but the rooms were outdated and seriously lacking in amenities.  No closet, microwave, refrigerator or coffee pot to be found and a bathroom so small you were thankful not to be a large person.  In addition, the heater came with full sound effects.   Every time it came on, it roared and rumbled so loudly that you were looking for ear plugs.

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However, it was very obvious that people don’t stay at the Bay Side Inn for the amenities.  It was all about location.   Our room literally sat on the edge of the lake with a bay window providing unending views of the water.    When you wake up to a scene like this, it is much easier to forget the roaring heater and the lack of a coffee pot.

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The inn did provide a continental breakfast which consisted of orange juice, pastries, and coffee.   However, we are admittedly food and coffee snobs so headed upriver to find a spot that would offer both a healthy breakfast and good coffee.   We stopped in Meredith on Weirs Bay at a spot called the Waterfall Café.   Although the food wasn’t particularly special, the drive was interesting and allowed us to see more of the countryside.

Waterfall Cafe

After breakfast, we headed back down to Alton Bay to check out the race start.   Packet pickup would take place in the morning before the race started so we wanted to make sure we had the logistics worked out.   We wandered around a bit, snapping photos.  Everything was so green and beautiful, and water seemed to be everywhere.

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Because the season doesn’t officially start on Lake Winnipesaukee until Memorial Weekend, many of the typical tourists attractions like tours and cruises were not open yet.   We reviewed our options and decided to check out Mt Major, one of the more popular hikes in the area.   The trailhead was just up the road from Bay Side Inn, so that made it additionally attractive.   We reviewed the map and decided a 3.2 mile hike with a 1,150 ft elevation gain was appropriate for a pre-race day activity.

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What the map didn’t tell us was that most of the elevation gain was in the last push to the top and would take us straight up a rock face.

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As you can see, I was not dressed appropriately for hiking.

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This picture says it all.

However, mountains were meant to be climbed, and these Swiss girls, while they may have gray hair and a wrinkle or two, were not to be deterred.   We scrambled and clawed our way to the top and took a moment to celebrate life and the incredible view.   Reality was the pesky mosquitos and the knowledge that what went up must come down.   We chatted with some locals who recommended a different route down.   It was a mile longer but would avoid going down that rock face.  All that was required was the ability to locate and follow the yellow and blue dots.   Done.  We made it back to the parking lot 2 hours later, glad to have experienced the hike and equally glad to be off the mountain.

Dinner that night was pizza and salad at a local pizza spot.  Again, we found the food amazingly delicious.   These New Englanders understand good food.

We set our alarm for 5:30 the next morning.   The race started at 8:00, but since we had to drive a few miles, pick up our packets, and walk to the start, we wanted to give ourselves plenty of time.   We had the usual dilemma of deciding what to wear.   Skies were blue with no rain on the horizon, but the temperature was hovering just below 50 with a bit of a breeze.  We settled on capris and checked our jackets which turned out to be just the right combination.

It was a morning for the ages. Nature’s color palette was absolutely breathtaking.

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And off we went.   The course was as spectacular as billed, with enough hills to keep it interesting, but not too challenging.    We both had good races and hence didn’t stop to take as many pictures as usual, but the race lived up to everything promised.   Well organized with unending views of everything that makes New Hampshire beautiful.

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This sign is always a welcomed sight.

But even when the course is beautiful, 13.1 miles is a long ways to run, so we are always glad to be done.   We grabbed the requisite post-race photos and hopped the shuttle back to our room to stretch, roll and clean up.

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I talk a lot about food on these blogs, but the reality is that one of the ways you really experience an area and its unique culture is by checking out the spots where locals eat.   Melodie found this restaurant called the Barn & Grille that looked intriguing for a post-race food celebration.   It literally looked like someone had converted a barn on the side of their house into an eating establishment.   The ambiance was very backwoods but felt authentic.  The place was packed with people dressed like lumberjacks and clearly enjoying themselves, and yes, the food was delicious.

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New Hampshire’s state motto

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We headed back to our room with the knowledge that we would need to be on the road by 3:30 am the next morning.  The only affordable flight left Manchester at 6:05 am which meant we were in for a long day.    Little did we know at this point what our travel day had in store for us.

We arrived in Manchester without incident, returned our rental car, and headed to the airport to check in.   As we were standing in the TSA Precheck Line, Melodie received a text on her phone from Southwest telling her that her flight from Chicago to Oakland had been cancelled.  It was hard to believe they would cancel a flight after people had already checked in, but that is what happened.   When Melodie talked to the agent at the Manchester gate, she was told the Oakland flight had been cancelled for maintenance.   She was put on a flight from Chicago that would route her through Detroit and Denver, increasing her travel time by 3.5 hours.   Not an exciting alternative.   At Chicago, she checked with the gate agent again and this time they found a flight going through San Diego/San Jose that would get her in at 1:30 pm which felt slightly more acceptable even with the long drive home.   She switched to this flight and at this point we said goodbye.

Chicago Midway Airport was insane, as you can imagine.   With severe storms sweeping the Midwest, flights were being delayed or grounded and people were frantic to find flights that would get them home.   We both managed to board our planes, but 30 minutes later we were still sitting on the tarmac.   Air Traffic Control was requiring pilots to file new flight plans that would route them around the strong headwinds.   My flight to Phoenix finally was allowed to take off, but it was a bumpy, long ordeal.   We were kept in our seats the whole time and the flight took an hour longer than usual.   I was never so glad to feel wheels on the ground.   Melodie’s story was much worse.  Her flight was kept on the tarmac for two hours before taking off.   And once they did get airborne, they were rerouted to avoid storms so by the time she finally landed in San Jose, she had been in that airplane for 9 hrs.   Added to that, she had the drive back to Oakland which took another hour.   All told, her travel day from Alton to Oakland was 18 hours.   It was the kind of day that made you grateful for the uneventful travel days, and very glad to be alive, safe, on the ground and done.

Even with that jarring ending, it was a trip to remember.   It was such a delightful location and a great race, and we always have so much fun together.   We don’t take much for granted anymore, and every race experienced and completed is a blessing.

Next up, Grand Island Trail Run in Munising, Michigan.   Can’t wait.

 

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Tennessee – State #34

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Cold, but beautiful morning atop Raccoon Mountain

Seems like it was just yesterday we ran Daufuskie Island, but 8 weeks goes by quickly and it was time to head out for the next state run.    We picked Run Raccoon Mountain for our Tennessee race for all the usual reasons, but also because the organization “AwesomeSauce” appeared to be super laid back and committed to ensuring that everyone had a good time.   There were no timing chips, no electronic mats, no mile posts, no awards;  just goofy people, coonskin caps, promises of beautiful trails and lots of goodies, and long, windy emails from the race director.   We are always game for something a bit different so we signed up.

This time around we had a crew which always increases the fun factor.   Colleen and I were coming from Mesa, AZ; Melodie from Alameda, CA; Janille from Baker, NV and Laurie from Woodinville, WA.   The master travel plan was to meet in Atlanta, pick up our rental van and drive 125 miles to Chattanooga, TN.    Coordinating flights from 4 different airports is always interesting, but we are fairly proficient by this time at making it work.  Colleen and I arrived first, with Janille arriving not long after.   Atlanta is the largest airport in the United States which was made clear to us as we rode a tram for 10 minutes just to get down to baggage claim.  We decided to hang out there and grab a bite while waiting for the others.   As we were eating, I heard the familiar “ping” of my phone.   Laurie was texting from Kansas City to let us know her plane had made a medical emergency landing.   Someone was apparently in the throes of a heart attack.   Very scary for that passenger but unfortunately meant we were going to be waiting for Laurie longer than anticipated.   Melodie arrived on time and hung out with us as we waited for updates from Laurie.   After a 90 minute delay with the full drama of EMT’s boarding the plane, stabilizing and removing the sick passenger on a stretcher, the plane was finally able to take off again.   Laurie arrived in Atlanta, not too much the worse for wear, and we were able to take off only two hours later than planned.  No biggie.

Our late afternoon departure from the airport meant we were caught right in the middle of Atlanta commuter traffic.   With Laurie as chauffeur and Melodie as navigator, we threaded our way through the congested freeways without incident and arrived in Chattanooga around 7:00 pm, safe and sound, but starving.   After a quick Google search, we stopped at a restaurant called “Farm to Fork”.   The full parking lot was a good indicator that this was a local favorite.

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The food was acceptable, but good ol’ country music dominated the scene.   If conversation was what you were after, you would have been disappointed.

I had been trying for the past two hours to contact our Airbnb hosts to get the access code for the townhome, but so far, crickets.   We were starting to wonder if we would have to punt and find something at the last minute, but they finally chimed in with apologies and the code (3 hrs after check-in time!) and we breathed a sigh of relief.   The townhome, although located in the industrial southside of Chattanooga, was very comfortable and relatively new.  After a very long travel day, we happily settled in for the night.

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From the front….

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From the back….

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This is how we relax…

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A welcome sight after a LONG day of travel

I had done a bit of research prior to the trip and found that we were only 20 minutes from Lookout Mountain, home to three of the most well-known Chattanooga area attractions – Ruby Falls, Rock City, and the Incline Railroad.    Friday morning, after breakfast and coffee, we headed out to Lookout Mountain to play tourist with hundreds of other visitors.  First stop, Ruby Falls.

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Finding the Starbucks before anything else happens.

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Trip researcher and planner extraordinaire

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My beautiful daughter and her mom

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Someone never stops talking…

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Preparing for our trip down the 1,120 ft elevator to Ruby Falls Cave.

At 145 feet, Ruby Falls is the nation’s tallest and deepest underground waterfall. The Falls are located at the end of the main passage of Ruby Falls Cave, in a large vertical shaft. The stream, 1,120 feet underground, is fed both by rainwater and natural springs. It collects in a pool in the cave floor and then continues through the mountain until finally joining the Tennessee River at the base of Lookout Mountain.  In 1928, Leo Lambert and a team of excavators found the breathtaking waterfall located over 1,120 feet below the surface of Lookout Mountain.  Lambert named the falls after his wife, Ruby, and opened the area as a public attraction in 1930.    Today, tourists are transported to the opening of the cave via elevator and only allowed in on guided tours.    We joined the masses and got in line for one of the tours.

After 45 minutes of listening to our tour guide and plastering ourselves to the walls of the cave to let exiting groups pass, we finally got to the waterfall.   It was truly spectacular.   So amazing to see something like this underground that has continued to flow for centuries.

We enjoyed the tour, but were glad when it was over.   There were a lot of people sharing the same space, a lot of standing was involved, and the space was narrow and crowded.  Some of our crew required immediate feeding after the tour so we headed over to the Urban Stack for lunch.

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Next stop was to scope out the race course on Raccoon Mountain, and then head over to REI to pick up race packets.

It turns out that Raccoon Mountain and REI were on opposite sides of Chattanooga, so we ended up putting in a lot of car time.   It was nice to see the countryside, but we were grateful to get back to the townhome for a bit of downtime.  Our race packets included the much advertised coonskin caps so we indulged ourselves with a little photography session.   Only a few arms had to be twisted.

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Coonskin Caps Tryout (4)

When in the country….

We decided we’d had enough of the car for one day, so that night we walked to downtown Chattanooga for dinner at a place called Alleia.    Chattanooga’s restaurants so far had been very lively, and this one was no different.   We ended up waiting for 45 minutes to be seated, but both company and food were excellent so we didn’t mind.

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The gatekeeper

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My beautiful niece

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The girls

We headed to bed early with the race and the weather on our minds for the next day.  The race didn’t start until 9:00 am, so we were able to be slightly more relaxed than usual, but we were still up early in anticipation of our day.    To our chagrin, the weather was hovering in the 30’s, so we layered up before heading over to Raccoon Mountain.

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She’s having fun, honest.

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Despite the cold, it was a gorgeous morning.

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The young uns’ signed up for the all-trail half marathon course.

Race Morning (1)

The older, wiser generation signed up for the part-road, part-trail half marathon. Turns out wise may not have been the right word.

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Laurie is very adept at dressing for cold weather.

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The happy crew with 20 pounds of clothes among them.

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One of my favs. Love this group. They are so fun to travel with.

This race was billed as having something for everyone; all trail, all road, part-road and part- trail, half marathon, marathon, 10K, and PM Half.   What this meant was that you had to be looking for color-coded ribbons constantly to ensure you were running the right course.   The caveat was that TVA decided to do some blasting in the area and all the trail sections had to be changed three days before the race!  More to come on that, but the race was on and we were off.

The first 6+ miles were great – clearly marked trails, beautiful vistas, lots of diverting objects hung in the trees, and a friendly raccoon to point you in the right direction.

Laurie and Janille ran the all-trail course so we didn’t see much of them after the first couple of miles.    They had significantly more hills and rock than we did.

Somewhere along the line, we still aren’t entirely sure how or where it happened, an entire group of runners got steered in the wrong direction.   Unfortunately, Melodie and I were part of that group.   We knew something was wrong when we started passing half marathoners coming the other way and their mileage was the same as ours.   We plowed on until we got to an aid station where we learned that indeed, we were running the course in reverse.   We grabbed a few goodies, stretched, stood in line for the porta potty, took in the views, and headed up the road again.  What else can you do??

We ran into the race director directing traffic around mile 8.   She told us we were just doing the PM course and not to worry.   She gave us instructions for the next trail loop and then when we joined the road again, she told us to turn right at a metal gate over a trail.   What she neglected to tell us is that there were two metal gates and we needed to turn at the second one.   Because the mountain was full of lost, confused people (including Janille who was as lost as we were) there were actually other runners coming down the trail at the first metal gate, so we felt relatively certain we were in the right place.   We ran all the way up a steep gravel road to the top of the mountain at which point we became certain we were in the area where they were blasting and runners were NOT supposed to be there.   By the time we turned around and got back to the road we had added an additional 2 very hard miles to an already long, hilly race.   We continued down the road and found the second metal gate accompanied by ribbons in the trees, but by then we were so disheartened we couldn’t get excited.   We carried on, but there was a lot of walking involved at this point and a feeling we may wander this mountain in circles forever.

As the story goes, we did eventually find the elusive finish line, 15 miles later.   It remains a mystery where, why and how we got so lost when technically there were course monitors and ribbons to guide our every footstep, but suffice it to say, we have never taken so long to run a race, or ever been so glad when it was over.

Laurie, in her inimitable way, somehow managed to run the right distance and not get lost.   She arrived a full 35 minutes before us, definitely the veteran trail runner among us.   Janille managed to find the finish line not long after us and her story was not a happy one either.   Colleen ran the 10K and was waiting patiently in the car for all of us to find our way home.   After a little food and drink, we cheered up considerably and managed to capture the traditional post-race photos.

A very weary crew headed back to the townhome to clean up.   We were tired and cold enough we didn’t even surface for a meal until much later that afternoon.   Of course, we talked and talked ad nauseum trying to figure out where we had gone wrong, but at the end of the day, it was a race for the history books, but not in the way we had intended.   We learned that laid back is great, but does not always play well with organization and clarity.

Sunday dawned clear and warmer.   We had a few more hours to fill with sight-seeing so we headed back to Lookout Mountain to ride the Incline Railroad and tour Rock City.    The railroad experience was pretty touristy, but regardless it is still impressive to go straight up and down a mountain in a rail car.

Last stop, Rock City.   Thank goodness this was a self-guided tour and we could go at our own pace.  Rock City gained prominence after owners Garnet and Frieda Carter hired Clark Byers in 1935 to paint “See Rock City” on barn roofs and walls in 19 states.   The experience is worth the billing.  Rock City is truly a marvel of nature, featuring massive ancient rock formations, gardens with over 400 native plant species, and breathtaking “See 7 States” panoramic views at the top from “Lovers Leap”.  

We finished exploring Rock City just in time to jump back in the car and head to Atlanta.   We figured we had given ourselves plenty of time, but accidents abound on these truck-congested freeways where everyone drives bumper to bumper at 85 miles an hour, and we ended up at serious risk for Laurie and Janille to make their flights.   We dropped them off with only 50 minutes to spare and headed over to the rental car center to drop off the van.  Laurie texted me 40 minutes later that she had made it by the skin of her teeth!    Colleen, Melodie and I all boarded our flights in a much more relaxed fashion within the next hour or so and started the long trek home.

As usual, it was such a fun weekend, filled with goofiness, camaraderie, exploring new countryside and seeing some pretty amazing sights.   We always learn so much on these trips;  about our country, about each other, and about ourselves.   The race may have had its frustrating moments, but the positive always vastly outweighs the negative.   We are so blessed to be able to travel, run, and experience life together.

Next up, Alton, New Hampshire on the shores of Lake Winnipesaukee.

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South Carolina – State #33

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January is always a tough month to find travel-worthy races with weather that is survivable.  We did our typical digging and found a trail run put on by Rough Runners on a tiny island off the southern coast of South Carolina.   Located between Hilton Head Island and Savannah, it is the southernmost inhabited sea island in South Carolina.    It is 5 miles long by 2.5 miles wide, and surrounded by the water of Calibogue Sound, the Intracoastal Waterway and the Atlantic Ocean.  Accessible only by ferry or barge, and with a full-time population of just over 300, Daufuskie Island encompasses a rich cultural experience, with environmental preserves, private communities, resorts, Gullah houses, diverse art galleries and history that goes back thousands of years.   All of that, coupled with a flat, beautiful course around the island with views of the Atlantic Ocean and we pushed go.

For a variety of reasons, Melodie and I were the only ones able to travel for this particular state run.  As we chatted, we realized the last time it was just the two of us was Nov 2009 when we ran the Rock ‘N Roll in San Antonio, TX.   We knew we’d miss our sisters, daughters, nieces and the occasional brother, but the two of us can make a party all by ourselves.  For these east coast runs, early is the name of the game.  We boarded flights in our respective home towns long before most people were up, and met in Chicago.   From there we boarded a flight for Charleston, SC and picked up our rental car, a trusty little (plain Jane) Toyota Corolla.   Although Google told us it was only 108 miles to our destination, it was a long, slow drive encompassing both crowded freeways and winding country roads.   It was well after 9:00 pm by the time we drove into Hilton Head and started looking for a place to eat.    Our host gave us a couple recommendations, but between unlit, dark roads and unreliable Google driving instructions, we ended up stopping at Carrabarra’s, an Italian chain restaurant close to our Airbnb condo.

My beautiful sis, the brains behind our states run journey.

Because January is off-season for beach towns, everything was very quiet and many places were closed.   At this particular restaurant, there were literally only 2 tables being utilized, and the gal that bussed tables had been repurposed to be our waitress.   She was very sweet, but struggled to take our order and get it right.  My meal came without the entree, but the gal was so profusely apologetic it was hard to be irritated.  The food was marginal but we were hungry enough that it didn’t matter.   After finishing dinner, we made a quick stop at a local grocer to pick up breakfast food and then gratefully headed to our condo to call it a day.

Lodging on Daufuskie Island was limited and extremely expensive, so we opted to stay in Hilton Island and take the ferry on race morning.    Arriving at our Airbnb condo, we were charmed and amazed.    We have stayed in many different places over the years – some great, some unique, and some downright awful – but this little beach condo was in a class of its own.   Decorated like a model home and sparkling clean, it invited you to settle in and be at home.   After a long travel day, it was balm to our bodies and souls.  And best of all, the bed was just right, even for a princess.

The only negative thing you could say about this condo is that it was tiny – really, really tiny.   It was advertised as being able to accommodate 6 people, but they would have to be super small, agile people who were ok with being on top of each other.  Melodie climbed in to check out the bunk bed, but declined spending the night there :).

The weather was definitely in our favor for this trip.   High’s in the 60’s and lows in the 40’s for Friday and Saturday.   There was a storm in the forecast, but it would hit after the race was finished.   After Tulsa, OK, we felt very blessed and fortunate.    We got up Friday morning, had a little breakfast in our cozy condo, and headed out to start our sight-seeing day.

First stop was 10 Haig Point Courthouse to pick up our packets and check out the ferry situation.   The Daufuskie Island Half, Marathon, and Ultra was a very small race with only 180 registered runners so arrangements were laid-back and friendly.

After determining that we knew what we needed to do on race morning, we consulted our brochures and decided to visit Sea Pines Resort.  The resort was developed by Charles Fraser in 1956 into the first private plantation community on Hilton Head, spanning 5,200 acres.   This unique plantation resort includes a 605-acre natural forest preserve, access to 5 miles of Atlantic beaches, residential homes and villas, the world-recognized Harbour Town Marina and its legendary Harbour Lighthouse, four championship golf courses, as well as shops, dining venues and various other sporting and tourist attractions.   Although the smell of affluence was everywhere, every effort has been made to make this resort into a prime family vacation destination.

Many of the trees on the island had what appeared to be moss dripping from all the branches. We were told it was not part of the tree itself, but a separate plant that was hosted by the tree.

Lunch time at QuarterDeck

Walking the pier

Someone forgot her sunglasses

Boat used for dolphin-sighting and adventure cruises

Bird watching. Pelicans everywhere.

Next stop, Harbour Town Lighthouse.   Although the climb to the top included 114 steps, we were so busy reading all the plaques detailing its colorful history that we never even thought about the climb.   Standing at 90 feet with alternating red and white bands, the lighthouse is perhaps the most recognizable symbol of Hilton Head Island.

Harbour Town Lighthouse

View of Calibogue Sound from the top

Yacht Basin

Harbour Town Golf Links

Selfie

Overlooking one of the most recognizable finishing holes in golf.

We drove around the island a bit more that afternoon, marveling at how green everything was, and taken by the fact that bikes appeared to be the primary mode of transportation.

No trip to a beach town is complete without a beach walk.   The Atlantic Ocean was literally 200 feet from our condo.   We headed down to the beach late that afternoon and just strolled for a while, drinking in the beauty, tranquility and timelessness of the ocean.

Atlantic Ocean Beach Walk

Beach homes

By the time we headed back, it was dark and we somehow managed to get a bit disoriented.   Even our trusty iPhones were no help.   We did finally manage to find the resort clubhouse and get back to our condo from there, but we did a fair amount of wandering before that happened.   In this case, all who wandered were definitely lost.

Race morning started early, no surprise there.   We needed to be up at 5:00 am in order to eat breakfast and catch the 6:30 am ferry.    The biggest bonus of getting up at that hour was a spectacular sunrise.  It made you glad just to be alive and experiencing the moment.

Finding a parking spot in the dark

Melodie heading down the ramp to the ferry.

They called it a ferry, but by Washington standards, it was a water taxi.

Oh, what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day!

Capturing the moment

Everyone made the runners feel welcome. The local people were so friendly and helpful.

Sunrise on Daufuskie

We arrived on Daufuskie Island at 7:00 am with an hour to spare before the race started.   The island was just as beautiful as the race organizers claimed it would be.  What an idyllic spot!   It was a truly a place to disconnect and absorb your surroundings.  The only fly in the ointment was, in fact, the bugs.

The sun was just starting to rise when we got to Haig Point.

Strachan Mansion – a historic building owned by the club. Runners were welcomed to hang out here.

The grounds were meticulously groomed.

Haig Point on Daufuskie Island

Remnants of an old structure made with crushed shells

Some of these trees are believed to be over 300 years old.

And then it was race time.

Pre-Race Selfie

Starting Line

Off we went, happy that it was warm enough for shorts and a tank top.

About 1/3 of the course was loose dirt. Nice on the feet, but hard to run on.

Running by the Atlantic Ocean

Rounding the corner to the finish line

Finished. Where’s the water and the salt?

Tired, but happy campers.  State #33 completed.

Finishers photo. One of a very large collection.

We hung out for a while after the race and considered renting a golf cart and touring the island, but our need for a hot shower, dry clothes, and a good meal won out.   We headed back to the water taxi and Hilton Head.

Later that afternoon, we drove around Hilton Head in pursuit of the perfect restaurant.  We finally landed on Black Marlin Grill, a restaurant with great reviews and a view of the Intercoastal Waterway.  The food was delicious and the wait staff extremely attentive.   At one point, we were the only people in the restaurant so we had a lot of people looking out for us.   It was a nice, relaxed meal and a great way to end our day.

As we headed back to the condo, the wind started to pick up, as predicted.   It soon became too windy to make even beach walking enjoyable and it reminded us how lucky we had been with the weather.   Sometimes, you just catch a break.

Sunday was another long travel day.   We packed up and checked out of the condo at 11:00 with the idea that we might do a little sight-seeing on the way back to Charleston, but it was so windy that even stepping out of the car was unpleasant.   The drive through the countryside in the daytime, however, was much more enjoyable and we were able to see a nice bit of South Carolina’s Low Country.   We arrived in Charleston without incident, returned our rental car, and boarded the plane for the first leg home.    We said our good-byes in Chicago, and reached our beds late that night.

At this point in our 50 states journey, we realize the end is actually in sight.   33 completed, 17 to go, and all are planned and on the calendar.  Melodie is already busy making plans for our next big audacious goal.  I expect it will have hiking in it, and perhaps some overseas travel.   But a few things remain certain – we appreciate each and every day we have to enjoy our world, the people we love, and the opportunity to pursue new adventures.   There’s more than a little frost on the pumpkin these days, the wrinkles are harder to conceal, and we may have slowed down a bit, but we are just as excited to pursue each new adventure.

Up next, Raccoon Mountain in Chattanooga, Tennessee.    And we’re ordering more of the same weather, thank you.

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Oklahoma – State #32

 

Route 66 Half (20)

Centennial Park

2018 has been full to overflowing with rich and varied travel experiences.  Tulsa, OK will be the 5th states run for the year, plus we were blessed to experience the trip of a lifetime in September.  David, Melodie, Kathy, Laurie, Tricia and I spent 10 days hiking in the indescribably beautiful, majestic Switzerland Alps.   We are pretty sure no travel experience will ever equal that one, but we are travel warriors and committed to our 50 states goal and it was time to get another states race on the books.

We struggled to select an Oklahoma race.   There were not a lot of choices, particularly in November.  In the spirit of honesty, Route 66 Half Marathon ended up being a bit of a “check the box” race.   We typically avoid large party events run solely on city streets and this was all of that and more.   Over 12,000 participants throng Tulsa, OK on this November weekend and the city pulls out all the stops.  The race celebrates Route 66, one of the original highways in the U.S. Highway system.  The legendary highway was established on Nov. 26, 1926 and existed until June 26, 1985.   The Mother Road, as it was also called, crossed 8 states and covered a distance of 2,448 miles.  The Williams Route 66 Marathon & Half has won awards for every possible category so we put the race on our calendar and hoped superb organization would mitigate the huge crowds and concrete factor.

As always, we had been weather watching in the weeks prior to the race.   Initially, the weather appeared to be race friendly with lows in the 40’s and highs in the 60’s, but as race weekend approached, the numbers started dropping alarmingly.    Memories of Chicago clanged loud and clear in our heads as we packed for every conceivable version of cold and colder.

Melodie met Kathy and I at Sky Harbor mid-Friday afternoon and flew together into Tulsa.  The flight was a mere two hours and from there we had only a short drive to our hotel, so we left much later in the day than usual.   We were staying at the Best Western Plus in downtown Tulsa so everything was close and convenient.   The hotel itself was very old and not particularly impressive, but it was adequate.  The biggest concern was an elevator that creaked and groaned alarmingly as it slowly inched its way up to our 5th floor room.   I was rather positive that at some point we were going to be spending the night in its narrow confines.

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We ate dinner at a restaurant recommended by the staff and it was so unremarkable that I didn’t even take a picture.   We determined to do better the next day.

Saturday dawned warm and sunny.   The hotel offered free breakfast, so we grabbed a bite and then headed out in search of a good cup of coffee and some sightseeing opportunities, in that order.    We found a little coffee shop on the ground floor of the Philbrook Museum of Art, a downtown satellite of the larger museum which is housed in the historic home of Waite and Genevieve Phillips.   The downtown museum is located in the Tulsa Brady Arts District and features nine collections of art from all over the world, spanning various artistic media and styles.

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The museum, unfortunately, was not open on Saturday, but we were able to wander around a bit and admire the elaborate, ornate building.

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We wandered around the streets of Tulsa for a bit before heading over to the Route 66 Expo to pick up our packets and check out all the exhibitors.   There’s always something that hits the “have to have” category at these running expos.

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Tulsa is considered the cultural and arts center of Oklahoma and has one of the nation’s largest concentrations of art deco architecture.   For most of the 20th century, the city held the nickname of “Oil Capital of the World”, but in recent years the city has become more diversified.   On this particular day, the most notable thing we saw was race preparations on every corner.   Volunteers were out in force preparing the streets for tomorrow’s race.

After a late lunch, we consulted our travel guide and decided to check out Centennial Park.  At that point, we were pretty much done with the concrete jungle.  It was a bit of a walk, but worth every one of those 10,000 steps.   We were totally charmed to find this park nestled on the outskirts of town.   Fall was still showcasing her brilliant colors here and the Arkansas River flowing through added to its charm.   We stayed here for a while, snapped pictures endlessly, and watched the sun go down.

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We dined on Andolini’s pizza that night while trying (unsuccessfully) not to be obsessed by the weather forecast.   Although the day had been sunny and warm, predictions were for the temperature to drop to the low 30’s overnight and stay there all day tomorrow under gray, cloudy skies and winds of 12 – 14 mph.   Ugh.

We woke up the next morning to find the forecast was pinpoint accurate.   Brrr.  We grabbed a bite to eat, dressed in multiple layers, and headed out for an 8:00 am start time.  The race was close to the hotel so walking was the best option, despite the freezing cold wind.

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My sis, doing her best to be positive.

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We were as cold as we look.

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Yours truly, making the best of a very cold situation.

And off we went to a flurry of confetti and blowing horns.   These race organizers do their very best to ensure you are having fun!

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This race boasted some of the best support I’ve seen on a race course.  Countless neighborhood cheering parties, legions of volunteers dispensing goodies, water, Gatorade, even free alcohol, and music on every block.  Despite their very best efforts to put on a spectacular event, what the race organizers could not do was change the weather.  We’ve done many runs that were cold at the start, but this one just didn’t warm up.    As is typical, Melodie managed to capture some pictures along the way.   

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Arkansas River. I’m sure it is beautiful in the summer and fall. Today, not so much.

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The iconic Route 66 Highway

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East Meets West Sculpture, surrounded by 8 flags representing the 8 states that the historic Route 66 passes through.

And so another race ended with its own unique story to tell.   Route 66 has a fascinating history and it was good to experience a small portion of it, despite the weather challenges.  Melodie and I both had respectable races and finished feeling grateful for the ability to complete another half marathon.

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Sunday dawned clear and much warmer.   We took advantage of the nicer weather and made a trip to visit Gathering Place, Tulsa’s brand new $465 million, 66.5 acre park, boasting the largest private gift to a park in U.S. Park History.   Gathering Place is a world class riverfront park designed to welcome all Tulsans to a vibrant and inclusive space that engages, educates and excites.  The vision of the initial donor and all the others who later joined in, was to create a gathering space that was a recreational, civic, and cultural destination for all walks of life to enjoy, promoting inclusivity in the city.  The park was designed to inspire both visitors and residents to play, learn, interact, relax and gather together.  No entry fees are charged and the park abounds with activities for every age while preserving the area’s natural charm.   Everyone we talked to was just brimming with pride and praise for the park and what it had already accomplished for the city.

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After visiting the park, it was time to say goodbye to Tulsa and head for the airport.    We had a bit of a struggle finding a gas station on our route.   We finally located a Sinclair a bit off the beaten path, but decided it would do.   We were a little concerned by the abandoned air of the place but a sign on the door said “Open” so we pulled in.   The gas pump had to be 100 years old, if a day.   It certainly predated the use of credit cards and the flow of gas could have been measured in tablespoons, not gallons.    We managed to pump the 6.5 gallons we needed and Kathy walked inside to pay for the gas.   An elderly gentleman greeted her with, “Hello, sweetheart.  How much gas did you buy?   I really don’t want to go out there and look, it’s too cold for these old bones.”    Kathy obligingly wrote down the amount and he hand wrote her a receipt on a scrap of paper.   We were both amused and amazed.    Kathy does have an honest face :).

Every trip teaches us something new, and this one was no different.   Although conditions were less than wonderful, the experience of traveling and running together while learning new things about this country of ours is ever fascinating.   We have so much fun together.   I don’t think the three of us stopped talking for three days.  The gift of friendship that we share is so special.   Even cold weather, stormy skies, and concrete streets can’t change that.

We landed in Phoenix without incident.   Melodie stayed overnight before heading home so she could meet Kathy’s darling little granddaughter, Maddy K.  What a little charmer she is!

Next stop, Daufuskie Island, South Carolina, and a prayer for warmer weather.

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